Bargain Pinot Noir?

Birth of a Wine Blogger has been in hibernation for a while, a bit like our dormant vines. 

Recently I was woken from my slumber by a colleague in the industry sending me a link to a Facebook post he had published. He was making the point that a certain Pinot Noir (see link) is on promotion in supermarkets for just $10 a bottle. He went on to say that it must be made from wine at the lower end of the spectrum, sourced from the countries featured on the label, to retail at that price.  He asked, in a world of commoditised, characterless wines, is this something we really need?

Check out: http://tinyurl.com/nesvbh2

What concerns me about this, as a dedicated Pinot producer, is that Kiwi consumers will buy this wine thinking it is a bargain, try it, may not have a great experience, think all Pinot Noir is the same, and be turned off the variety forever. 

Why did he conclude that the wine must come from the "lower end of the spectrum"? 

Let's dissect the $10 and see where he is coming from. Of the ten dollars, the government collects $3.66 (the ALAC levy of about 3 cents, plus $2.13 excise duty and $1.50 GST); pretty good return for the government! 

Then, assuming the retailer takes a 30% margin ($3) and the distributor a 20% margin ($2), that leaves $1.34 for the winemaking! Let's be conservative though and say the winery sells direct to the retailer, so no fee for the distributor. In that case the remaining sum is $3.34. Let's see where we end up if we consider that.

What's left to cover the wine component after allowing for bottling costs, freight and distribution, warehousing, marketing and other related expenses? Say these add up to $1.80 per bottle. That leaves $1.54 for the wine. Say my analysis is too tough. Add another $1 back to cover that. That leaves me to ponder the quality of wine you might buy at $2.54 per bottle? 

Contrast that with the cost per litre of our 2015 Pinot Noir. That was over $13 per litre, before bottling, taxes, etc. So even if my costs are high, we can safely assume it is not top quality, hand-picked Martinborough Pinot Noir in the wine we are discussing. 

Disclaimer: I have not yet tasted this wine. I will as soon as I can get a bottle though, then I'll report back. If I have wronged a good product I will admit that. However, my comments above are based on experience and general principles. I can say with confidence is that I have learned in my 30 years in the wine industry is that it would be an absolutely amazing achievement to deliver a 'Premium Pinot Noir' (which is what the label claims) for $10, let alone $2.54. 

'Moby Dick'

At Murdoch James Estate, we have one of the oldest if not the oldest, balloon presses in New Zealand. It is a Wilmes, made in Germany, and dates from the late 1950's we believe. This is not one of your modern computer controlled, hands-off, "press 'start' and come back later" wine presses. Our press needs an operator to be in attendance at all times to care of its every need. One well-known local blogger referred to it as 'Moby Dick'; a big presence, imposing, round and long, and somewhat daunting. I must admit, it certainly looks a lot like the great white whale. The name stuck and all our team now think of this wonderful machine by that name. 

But now 'Moby Dick' (thanks for the name to both Jared and Herman) is in serious trouble. The gearing between the electric motor and the press cylinder has broken and parts to fix it are not able to be found. Yet we are not giving up! We have started a global search for the parts.

But, like Thomas the Tank Engine, where Thomas's steam power was under threat from upstart diesel locomotives, if we cannot revive Moby he may have to be sold as scrap. And that would be a tragedy. Like Thomas, we want Moby to fight back too, and prove his worth. He has a place beside our new press to provide back-up. We want to save him and continue to use his talents where we can. Moby is gentle to the grapes when pressing, and as we have to be there all the time to tend to his needs, we can see exactly what he is up to and encourage the very best from him. 

 As to how can you help? Well, we hear every day about the power of social media to galvanise support for important causes. And, what more important cause than saving Moby from the 'harpoons' of the scrap metal merchants. If you know of anyone who might be able to help let us know. We will fly the parts in from anywhere in the world if they are in good condition.

 

Maybe you know of a relation to Moby who is past restoration, but could become a part donor and keep Moby alive for future generations? We are going to post on Facebook, Twitter and other social media sites to make sure we make every effort to save him, so pass the message on if you are motivated to do so. If you can help, call us at Murdoch James Estate (+646 306 9165) or e-mail me at info@murdoch-james.co.nz. We would love to hear from you!